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Martin Mittelbach is a Wachau insider with an outsider’s perspective. He is the fifth generation of Mittelbachs to run the historical Tegernseerhof, an estate that goes further back than 1000 years.
Despite the estate’s historical merit, you couldn’t find a much more progressive winemaker with his own set of standards and way of thinking in this region. Martin took over the estate at a very young age and immediately changed the way things were done. As you could imagine, there was some friction with his father who preferred to make wines more on the sweeter side.
Today, you would be hard pressed to find a more dry and straight style in the Wachau. The grapes are harvested and sorted rigorously to take out any botrytis grapes and then vinified and raised in stainless steel. They are harvested with no botrytis to keep the wines focused and tense. His wines are like his personality: intense, focused and highly intellectual.
These laser beams are as far away from the often baroque style that can be found in this region. In every level his wines excel and can stand tall next to any of the greatest producers in Austria.
With 25 hectares of vineyards located on the finest slopes of the picturesque Wachau region in Austria, formed by the meandering Danube River.
Inspired by ancient winemaking traditions, Martin is passionate about producing the finest expressions of vineyard and grape variety; whether Grüner Veltliner or Riesling, each wine has its own unique personality. Tegernseerhof is a member of the Vinea Wachau association. Founded in 1983, the Vinea Wachau wineries only produce wines from their own growing areas, as defined by law. Vinea Wachau oversees quality: there can be no compromises and members are bound by their own code. The resulting outstanding quality accounts for the success of Vinea Wachau wineries and their wines regularly win national and international prizes.
Martin handles his fruit gently and conscientiously, while focusing on precision of expression. Protective juice handling and reductive fermentation are practiced to promote the best primary fruit extraction. Juice clarification lasts two days, followed by a cool fermentation of clear must at 16-18°C (Smaragd ferments at a slightly warmer temperature). Wines are aged on fine lees. Minimal manipulation is the practice here in order to allow the wines their maximum potential for natural development.
A touch of Irish moss plays alongside pear notes on the nose of this wine. The palate adds lemony verve and textured, yeasty notes as well as a touch of white pepper. The finish is clean and moreish, with that lemony savouriness lingering long.
In season fresh asparagus with hollandaise.
A wine of great purity and balance made to be consumed young.